Arcane (Lunch Set)

Arcane (Lunch Set)

Where:
Arcane
3F/18 On Lan Street
Central, Hong Kong

Phone:
+852 2728 0178

Price:
HKD270 for the two course lunch set, HKD350 for the three course lunch set (+10% service charge).  Does not include coffee.  I did the two course set, an a la carte dessert and coffee and was out at around HKD500.

The deal:
Despite my grandstanding in a previous post about HK’s predilection for hot young things and my new year’s resolutions to be less of a new restaurant slut, it’s true what they say – you can’t teach an old slut new tricks, regardless of however hot and dirty those old tricks may be.  WAIT, IS THAT HOW THE FUCKING SAYING GOES?  Arcane opened in November 2014 on the hot as fuck On Lan Street, where there are now approximately five restaurants opening every week.  I shit you not, I read a press release last week about a Mexican-Korean taco place abysmally called Takorea is opening on On Lan Street.  Who are these fucking monsters? IS THIS REAL LIFE?

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Shane Osborn has got some chops yo and is the first Australian chef to achieve one and two Michelin stars at his former gig at Pied-a-Terre in London.  Prior to Arcane, he was at St Betty’s in the IFC.  Filled with natural light, the Arcane dining room is super tastefully done – contemporary art work, oak parquetry floors, a fuck yeah lush outside terrace area and you know what reliably gives me a stiff – heavy white crisp linen tablecloths and the crockery slut in me was all about their fat bottomed Zalto glassware, Bernadaud matte white plates and the David Mellor brushed cutlery.  Fuck yeah to restaurants who actually give a proper shit about their decor and don’t rely on slapping a “contemporary dining room with a purposefully informal, relaxed attitude” label on their design ethos which really just translates to “We fucking ran out of cashola so thought we’d strip shit out, use grey paint and cheap out on tablecloths by claiming we’re about modern dining which dispenses with stuffy, formal experiences”.  Yeah tight asses, I see what you did there.

While I waited for my lunch, I got stuck into Arcane’s warm bread they served with a jagged lump of butter, displayed artfully on a slate.  Fuck yeah, that open crumbed brown sourdough bastard was fucking magnificent and I know this is true because I ate another two pieces just to make sure my fuck yeah feelings were justified.  For the first course, I selected from the set lunch menu and ordered the warm veal rillette on a bean cassoulet.  I had fears that Arcane was going to be one of those beautiful and tiny food for ants affair but Arcane surprised on the upside cause shit was remarkably hearty.  The veal rillette arrives with a gentle smear of herb sauce and the bed of stewed beans were creamy and cooked to al dente, benefiting from a slow gentle cook with a rich stock.  Fuck yeah, shit was awesome.  Other than the fact that this was served inappropriately in a fucking bowl which meant that using a knife and fork (even if it was a beautiful as fuck, perfectly weighted knife and fork) was super fucking awkward as I angled my cutlery into the bowl to cut shit up.  Y U choose bowl, Arcane homies? Shit may have looked fancier but won’t someone think of the user experience??

For my main course, I ordered the Fukuoka snapper fillet  The other option was some boring ass chicken breast which I just can’t get fucking excited about. The fish was perfectly done and artfully placed on a bed of toasted quinoa couscous, surrounded by a perfect ratio of white plate, dotted with a green herb pesto.  Artful micro herbs punctuated the fish but I can’t fault this main.  The couscous wasn’t your standard restaurant filler given that they’d dry roasted the quinoa before cooking it up in a stock giving it this fuck yeah nutty flavour.  I fucking loved that Arcane’s dishes got their seasoning levels and their textures spot on.

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